Mexicos World Heritage Sites

New York Times

Off a lazy plaza in the historic center of Izamal, Mexico, across the street from a Franciscan monastery built in 1561 on top of a Maya pyramid, a small market putters along. Behind open arches painted golden yellow like every other colonial building in town, poor quality T-shirts cover the walls, their silly English slogans clearly targeted at local residents, as are the avocados and chirimoyas sold by an older woman nearby.

Souvenir vendor awaits tourists at Chichén Ítza.
But squint a little, and it's easy to imagine a different future for this small Yucatán town. The bargain "No Problem" and "Sport Attitude" jerseys morph into crisp, overpriced Izamal T-shirts; the woman is still there, but selling knickknacks to tourists who've just toured the pyramids or the monastery, El Convento de San Antonio de Padua, with its nearly two-acre atrium. Then they will head off to picturesque hotels that do not yet exist.

If municipal officials have their way, Izamal, or at least the convent, will be designated the eight-hundred-and-somethingth Unesco World Heritage site, and that new tableau will be all but ensured...

Take a ride

From an article in the Denver Post some good advice and some bad.

It's a tradition maintained since the 17th century and favored especially among young sweethearts because, as our guide, Braulio Rosales Diaz, explained, "The in-laws can't see both of you." Take sustenance at Los Almendros on Calle 57 and get a taste of the Yucatan at its most authentic, especially if you ask for poc chuc, slices of grilled marinated beef covered with onions; or pollo pibil, perfectly seasoned chicken wrapped in banana leaves.

Then stroll - or, better yet, rent a calesa, a horse-drawn buggy - along the broad Paseo de Montejo, lined on either side by ornate 19th-century homes, many converted into offices, and by a tree canopy offering shelter from the tropical sun.

Calesas depart from the main plaza and also travel along the Paseo de Montejo to the Monumento a la Patria. A one-hour buggy ride costs as little as $12, but agree on a price before you start. Because of weekday vehicular traffic, buggy tours are most enjoyable on Sundays.

The good advice is to take a buggy ride through town because you notice details that you miss when walking or driving in a car. It's the perfect pace for seeing the city of Merida. The bad advice....eat at Los Almendros! Don't!

Food & Wine without the Whine

Food & Wine Magazine


Here is an article from Food & Wine magazine on "A Yucatan Adventure" with chefs Patricia Quintana & Melissa Clark. The Spanish influences on the cuisine are strong—the conquistadors arrived in the 16th century—but so are those of the Mayans, whom the Spanish were never quite able to obliterate, despite their bloody efforts. Northern Europeans have left their legacy too, particularly the Dutch: Holland was an active trading partner in the 19th century, when Mérida was the center for the production of henequen, a fiber traditionally used for making rope. "The corn, the chocolate and the honey, the venison and wild turkey, squash, cucumbers, chiles and tomatoes are from the Mayans," Quintana says. "The pork and Seville oranges come from Spain, and the Edam cheese from the Dutch."

Granny gets Granola, Polly wanna Cracker!

New York Times

Merida: Finding a Home (Cheerios Included) in Mexico

Oh NO not another article on expats and Merida. yep.

Here is Kate Murphy's take on Merida with Ellen Fields as her guide. She perpetuates the myth that there is still a bargain to be had. "Most of the plaster buildings in the historic district are from the early 19th century and have high ceilings, Moorish ironwork and colorful, patterned floor tiles called mosaico. They are also bargains, at around $40,000 for a four-bedroom, two-bathroom colonial home."

Then you can file this under Sad but True..."Foreigners have done much to preserve and transform Mérida's historic architecture. "It's kind of an expat hobby," said Werner Gross, who is restoring his second home in Mérida after fixing up and reselling the first. Local laws require that only the exterior of buildings retain their original look. "Behind the facade, you can basically build a brand new house," Mr. Gross said."

Then Ms. Murphy ends her article with this quote, "We're scared too many people will find out about it," Ms. Fields said. "We don't want it to get overrun." Earth to Ellen, then why do you have this blog???

Paradise Lost

Los Angeles Times

Hum, another article on moving to Merida and renovating houses. I think I'll print this one out and line my bird cage. Poor Archibald has been sitting on eggs all summer with very little help from Hyacinth. Maybe this will inspire the eggs to hatch. Last night we went out for the first time in .... ages. We went to a benefit for the AIDS hospice, Brazos Abiertos, that was held at the Villa Merida. I knew about 5,6 maybe 7% of the people present. Three years ago when I had a life beyond renovating houses I would have know 90% of the expats. Met the Rogers when we walked in. No sign of Grant and Clifford. Paul Zeigler and Samuel Barrera wearing Gaultier tatoo t-shirts or what passes for Gaultier in the 3rd world. Had a chat with the manager of the hotels wife, Grace, about the curse of vinyl paint in a humid climate. Saw all of the real estate agents trying to avoid having conversations with home owners wanting to list their houses. Made a plan to see Ellen and Jim the working Gringos from Yucatan Living for dinner next week and commiserate over mac woes. And now this fine Sunday morning I'm going out to the Ruta Puuc to look for a couple of hundred acres in which to build a new house. A modern house to escape from all you L.A. Times readers who are packing your bags. See you at next years benefit but I'm sure I wont recognize you.